Abaya Alterations Part 5 - How to Add Side Pockets in Abaya or Modest Dress

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 Abaya/Modest Dress Alterations Guide

Part 5 - How to Add Side-Pockets in Abaya/Modest Dress

Pockets make every garment cool, don't you think? And they are practical too!

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Having a pocket in abaya/dress means you can carry mobile, keys and some cash conveniently for a quick run outside. I wish every abaya would come with pockets. Sadly they don't!  Lets add In-seams aka Side pockets to our Abayas and Modest Dresses.

This post is Part 5 of Abaya/Modest Dress Alterations Series.

In this 6-posts series, the topics are:

  1. Adjusting Abaya Length (shorten/lengthen)
  2. Adjusting Abaya Fit (too tight/too loose)
  3. Adjusting Sleeves Length and Fit
  4. How to Insert Zipper in Abaya
  5. How to Add Pockets in Abaya
  6. How to Embellish Abaya and Modest Dress
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How to Sew Side Pockets In Abaya or Modest Dress

Things You Will Need:

How to Do It!

Download the FREE Pocket Pattern Pdf. Print with 100% scale. To make sure you have printed the right size, measure the 1 inch test square with a ruler. Cut out the Pocket Pattern piece.

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Preparing the Pieces

I am adding Pocket on Right seam. It is up to you on which side of dress you want the pocket. You can choose to do one side or both. I am only working on one side.
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First measure from top where you want your pocket in your abaya/dress. Mark top starting point on both side seams.

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Place the pattern piece with abaya where you marked, keeping it half inch above. Mark for bottom of pocket, half inch above the pocket ends.

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Start unpicking seams from front with seam ripper between the two markings.

Turn your abaya inside out. Then unpick the seams downwards for 6 inches.

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Unpick overlock stitching too.

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Pin the pattern on fabric. Cut the fabric following the cutting lines.

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Flip the pattern to other side and pin and cut second pocket piece.

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Keeping right sides together, pin the straight side of pocket piece to right side of pocket abaya opening (so the curve hangs on bottom)

Sewing it Together

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Leaving half inch from top and bottom of pocket piece, stitch seam 2mm smaller than original. Back-stitch at beginning and end to secure. Trim thread tails.

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Press the seam. Then press the seam towards pocket.

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Working on the right side of abaya, top-stitch on pocket where you attached it. Leave the half inch from top and bottom as before. Backstitch to secure. Press top-stitching.

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Repeat the same procedure for other pocket piece.

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Pin both pocket pieces together.

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Sew with half inch seam allowance. Finish the seam with serger or pinking shears. Press.

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Stitch side seams together from top and bottom of pocket, keeping pocket out of the way. Overlap previous stitching of dress for an inch to secure. Backstitch where pocket ends.
Press new seams.

Reinforce Seams

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In-seam pockets have a tendency to tear up if they are not reinforced. It is not a pretty sight when stitching starts to unravel. To prevent this, turn the pocket towards front side of abaya, tack the top and bottom of pocket with narrow zigzag stitch. You can also sew with straight stitch 3 times(doing back-stitching) horizontally to achieve same result.

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Press the pocket seams well, making sure pocket doesn't show outside. Enjoy your abaya with loads of room to store your stuff or rest your hands in them. 

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I was thinking it will be a loooong tutorial, but it turns out, adding pockets to side-seams of Abaya or Modest Dress is pretty easy and quick. With the help of above step-by-step instructions and free Pocket Pattern Download, I am sure you can nail it in no time!

Happy Sewing,

Rabeea 🧵✂👚

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